The Wine Camp Blog

Raccolta Selection: Il Falcone

2000 Rivera, Il Falcone, Riserva, Puglia
Price: $30.00

It is impossible to visit Puglia and not see it. Even if you don't visit it yourself, its image is everywhere on hotel walls, postcards and tourist brochures. The famous, imposing octagonal walls of the Castel del Monte are indeed a symbol of Puglia. The perfect symmetrical beauty of the Castel del Monte makes a fine contrast with the rugged quaintness of Puglia's other great tourist attraction, the stone Trulli houses of Alberobello. In the shadow of the castle walls lie the vineyards of the Castel del Monte DOC and some of Puglia's best wines.

Wine represents the history of Puglia just as much as the ancient stones of the Trulli and the Castel del Monte. Winegrowing here precedes the Romans and vines were brought to this region by the Greeks almost 3,000 years ago. Unfortunately, wine making did not change very much for the next few thousand years and it is only recently that winemakers caught up with history. The De Corato family, owners of Azienda Vinicola Rivera in the Castel del Monte DOC, have been leaders in the modernization of winemaking in Puglia. Although innovators, they have always kept their focus on the traditional vines of the region and to making wines that reflect the character of their vineyards. The estate was founded in the 1950's by Sebastiano De Corato, but it was the arrival of his son Carlo that set this estate on a course that would attract international attention to their excellent wines. Today Carlo has been joined by his son, Sebastiano, as a third generation strives to constantly improve the Rivera wines.

Rivera produces a full range of excellent wines including: Triusco Primitivo, perhaps the most stylish Primitivo being produced in Puglia; Cappellaccio, the robust Aglianico and Rupicolo, a red wine bargain. However, no wine shows the potential for making excellent wine in Puglia as well as the dramatic and complex Il Falcone. This blend of nero di troia (70%) and montepulciano (30%) confirms the noble nature of these vines in the right vineyards and in the hands of passionate winemakers. Available at under $30 a bottle this wine is a tremendous value.

Tasting notes: Brilliant ruby with the slightest hint of garnet. Just translucent. The nose is layered and complex and continually opens and improves in the glass. The foresight to decant this wine an hour or so before serving will be rewarded. The lush mixture of aromas includes raspberry, bitter cherry layered with tar and an appealing warm, earthy Mediterranean character. On the palate the wine is rich and powerful, yet carries its wildness with an amazing balance and elegance. The finish is long and varied bouncing from fruit to tar to sweet oak and shows significant, but well integrated tannins that signal good aging potential. I would wait 5 or 6 years to really let this fine wine show everything it promises. Il Falcone calls for the finest in roasted or gilled meats and game.

A Mario Belardino Selection - Imported by Bedford International