The Wine Camp Blog

2002 Bortoluzzi Sauvignon, Isonzo del Friuli (Jan. 2004)

Big batches of fried fresh anchovies!

Seafood and sauvignon blanc: one of the great marriages of wine and food and excellent sauvignon blanc is made the world over with fine wines being made in the USA, New Zealand, Australia, South America, South Africa, France (of course) and Italy.

For some reason not much attention is given to Italian sauvignon blanc outside of Italy, but they are missing the fishing boat. The best Italian versions come from Friuli and Trentino/Alto Adige and walk the line between the beautifully defined minerality of Sancerre/Pouilly Fume and the herbaceous wines of New Zealand. For Graves devotees there are even creamy versions like the delicious Collio sauvignon blanc of Roncus.

Isonzo del Friuli is the tiny region just south of Gorizia at the northern tip of the Adriatic sea from where the small finger of Italy emerges to include Trieste in its borders. In the flatlands here the meandering course of the Isonzo River has left vineyards fill of minerals and other sedimentary soils that combined with the excellent climate produces deservedly famous wines. To the north the Alps stop the cold continental winds and to the south the Adriatic moderates both the cold of winter and the heat of summer.

It was to this region that well-known local enologist Giovanni Bortoluzzi decided to create his own estate in 1981. His dedication to quality has produced a range of excellent wines from vineyards that span the border between Isonzo and Collio. Demanding vineyard techniques and exacting winemaking produce wines that speak clearly of both the varietal and the vineyard. The estate is now a true family enterprise with the participation of sons Alessio (assistant winemaker) and Alberto (vineyard manager), and daughter Angela (administration). They are also to be complimented for their fair pricing policies.

On Friday mornings when the traveling market arrives in our village along with fresh anchovies - I can rarely resist buying a big batch and firing up the deep-fryer. The flavorful, slightly pungent, crispy little fish can find no better match than the racy, fruity Bortoluzzi Sauvignon Blanc. This is a deep-fried fish wine that can’t be beat. Fermented and aged only in stainless steel its fresh acidity backed by energetic fruit flavors have no trouble balancing the light oiliness of properly fried fish. I would also happily pop open a bottle along side of the fried lake perch of my native Mid-west or with a platter of fried shrimp. Like its French cousin Sancerre, this wine is also an excellent match for goat cheeses and a versatile aperitif that matches well with varied appetizers.

Tasting Notes:
Bortoluzzi, Sauvignon, Isonzo del Friuli, 2002

Bright light gold. Racy, pungent, exciting fruit aromas. Hints of pineapples, pears, grapefruit and fresh apples. Filled with exciting, fresh aromas that make your mouth water. Firm mineral flavors open into tart citrus notes that then broaden into fresh pears, lychee and spiced apples. The finish is long, fresh and palate cleansing leaving your mouth full of clean fresh fruit flavors Lovely.

Imported by Neil Empson