The Wine Camp Blog

2002 Torre Quarto, Primitivo, Tarabuso, IGT Puglia

Primitivo - Zinfandel - Crljenak

In the 1960’s plant pathologist Austin Goheen was wandering through the vineyards of the southern Italian region of Puglia and noticed that the extensively planted Primitivo grape looked a lot like Zinfandel. Soon genetic tests showed them to be identical and the rush was on to create a family reunion.

Some bulk producers in Puglia started to label wines for export under the name Zinfandel and California producers soon became concerned that they would be drowned in an ocean of cheap Italian “Zinfandel”. Well the flood never really materialized and now further research has shown that Zinfandel’s parents did not come from Italy -- although European and American authorities will still allow Primitivo destined for the USA to be called Zinfandel although Zinfandel cannot be sold in Europe as Primitivo.

Geneticist Carole Meredith, the famed grape vine family tree detective, has concluded that while Zinfandel and Primitivo are genetically the same, they are in fact two different clones that came from the same family. The parent vine of both these varietals is called Crljenak (pronounced just like it's spelled) and comes from Croatia. Zinfandel may, in fact, be an older clone of Crljenak than Primitivo which has less than 200 years of recorded history in Italy.

Puglia, the heel of Italy’s boot, is awash with wine and Primitivo is responsible for a large part of that production. Much of Puglia’s (Apulia in English for some reason) sun-drenched vineyards produce course jug wines destined for Italy’s supermarkets, but Primitivo, like its cousin Zinfandel, is capable of producing an incredible range of wines that can run from light everyday quaffers to deep complex wines that grab your attention. A growing number of dedicated producer are producing exciting wines from the regions indigenous varietals which include: Primitivo, Nergoamaro and Uva di Troia.

Stefano Cirillo Farrusi set out to restore his family winemaking tradition in Puglia when he purchased the vineyards and historic winery from his older brothers. He invested in the finest technology and now, with the assistance of winemaker Cristoforo Pastore, have dedicated themselves to be a quality leader in the area and have gained respect on fine wine lists across Italy. What stands out in all the wines of Torre Quarto is their ability to achieve richness and roundness without becoming one of the over-ripe alcohol monsters that many wineries produce. These are stylish wines that temper the exuberant flavors of southern Italian fruit with some structure and yes, even elegance. Do not miss this the Torre Quarto Bottaccia, which is one of the best examples of Uva di Troia.

Tasting Notes: 2002 Torre Quarto, Primitivo, Tarabuso
Bright ruby, with purple hints. Just translucent. Rich ripe dark berry fruit aromas laced with bitter cherry, fresh tar and toasty, smoky notes. The mouthfeel is rich smooth and filled with ripe raspberries and blackberries. The full, sweet fruit flavors soon give way to spicy bitter cherries layered with plums and a touch of smooth vanilla. The finish is long, ripe and spicy, but with none of the over-ripeness and alcohol burn that plagues this varietal. This wine is a great match for the famous local hard cheese, Canestrato Pugliese, and the delicious and varied salumi of Puglia. Lamb is extremely popular here and the rich, but firm fruitiness of this wine would be a lovely compliment to herbed spit-roasted spring lamb.

Imported by Montecastelli, A Jens Schmidt Selection