The Wine Camp Blog

Villa Calcinaia, Conte Capponi, Chianti Classico Riserva, 2000, Jan. 2004

Classic Chianti Classico

The Capponi family has a lot of winemaking experience: almost 500 years to be exact as the family can trace its ownership of the estate to 1524. Over the centuries each generation added its own character to the estate called Calcinaia, located in Greve in the heart of the Chianti Classico zone. The histories of Chianti Classico and the Capponi family are intertwined and this can be seen in the Calcinaia wines of today as these are wines with a modern touch, but whose style is firmly rooted in a classic Tuscan character.

No important wine region has undergone such a dramatic revolution in viticulture and wine making. As late as 1983 up to 30% white grapes were permitted in the Chianti Classico blend. In 1984 that minimum percentage was dropped to 2% and in 1996 any minimum requirement for white grapes was dropped altogether. Another important change happened in 1984 when up to 10% “foreign” varieties were allowed (primarily cabernet sauvignon and merlot). The percentage allowed for “foreign” varieties was increased in 1996 and they are included in the 20% allowed by the DOCG for other varietals that include the indigenous canaiolo and colorino.

Sangiovese is the heart of Chianti Classico and the all the other Chianti place names and must represent 80% of the blend. The cultivation of this classic varietal has undergone dramatic changes - for the better. The “Chianti Classico 2000” project created an area-wide and in-depth study to discover the finest clones of sangiovese and the best viticultural practices. The results of this study are only just beginning to be felt and we can expect continued dramatic improvement of the wines of Chianti Classico in the future.

While ‘super-Tuscans” (wines made outside of DOCG regulations using high percentages of “foreign” varietals or 100% sangiovese) may have led the revolution in Tuscany, the wines of Chianti Classico no longer take a back seat to these innovative wines. In fact, most of the best Chianti Classico wines today would have had to be called super-Tuscans less than ten years ago.

The great sangiovese wines of the Chianti Classico zone are defined by their structure and elegance, which are easily overwhelmed by the overuse of new oak barrels. Fortunately the Capponi family has avoided this temptation and their wines exhibit classic Tuscan character with just a judicious shade of new oak flavors that enhance rather than dominate. The firm, complex flavors of their wines shows why the wines of Chianti Classico compliment foods in such an elegant manner. These are not pizza and pasta wines, but wines to be served in the same manner as fine Bordeaux or Cabernet Sauvignon.

Tasting Notes:
Villa Calcinaia, Conte Capponi, Chianti Classico Riserva, 2000
85% Sangiovese; 5% Canaiolo; 10% Merlot
Brilliant ruby, scarlet. Just translucent. Full spicy plum aromas with hints of ripe dark cherries. The fruit has a smooth creamy elegance. Racy, ripe plum fruit with an underlying bitterness and mineral character. Very layered and complex. While medium bodied it is more than full enoug offering both elegance and structure. The finish in long and layered with bitter cherries followed by a firm, but round touch of tannin.

Also recommended:
Villa Calcinaia, Casarsa, Rosso dei colli della Toscana Centrale, 1999
100% merlot ($35.00)

Bright ruby with scarlet hints and a light touch of purple. Just translucent. Soft, creamy ripe plums and blueberries give way to ripe cherry aromas. Starts out round and soft but then firms up. Spicy dark cherry fruit opens to light oaky and earthy flavors. The finish is ripe, but quickly firms-up with round tannins at the end.