The Wine Camp Blog

1999 Poderi Colla, Barolo, Bussia, Dardi Le Rose - Nov. 2003

The Grand Tradition of Barolo

My first introduction to the greatness of nebbiolo in the Barbaresco and Barolo zones was in the early 80’s through two great winemakers that both took time out of their busy schedules to teach a young American about the wines of Piemonte. One was Angelo Gaja and the other was Beppe Colla, then at Prunotto. Angelo was the innovator expanding the definition of Piemontese wines, but Beppe Colla was the master of the traditional style that had made Piemonte famous in the first place. Colla crafted wines at Prunotto that still radiate with elegance and style to this day. The Prunotto wines are now in the modern school after their acquisition by Antinori, but it was Colla’s masterful touch that made the winery famous enough for Antinori to buy in 1994. In fact, Angelo Gaja himself selected the Prunotto wines of Beppe Colla, at a dinner at Da Guido in 1984, to show me the great potential that classic nebbiolo wines could have in the right hands.

Today that rich heritage is carried on by Tino Colla, Beppe's younger brother, and Frederica Colla, Beppe’s daughter, who are partners in Poderi Colla. Their family owned estate was created in 1993 and its wines are based on superb vineyards in Barbaresco (Tenuta Roncaglia,); Barolo Bussia in Monforte d’Alba (Tenuta Dardi Le Rose) and Cascine Drago in the Alba zone. In addition to their fine vineyards, Tino and Frederica have unique and important asset: the advice and consul of Beppe’s fifty years of experience.

With their 1999 Poderi Colla, Barolo, Bussia, Dardi Le Rose, the Colla family has created yet another classic Piemontese masterpiece.

Tasting Notes: Bright scarlet/ruby with hints of garnet. Translucent. Smoky, dried porcini aromas slowly open into tart raspberry fruit. Closed and intense on the palate with layers of flavors: mushrooms, leather, cherry and raspberry. The finish is concentrated, long and very tannic. Truly an outstanding, classic wine destined for long-term greatness; this wine needs at least ten years of aging and can benefit from more patience in good storage conditions. A classic Barolo that collectors should seek out.

With Barolo the Colla’s recommend Ox braised in Barolo. Who are we to argue?

Bue brasato al Barolo – Ox braised in Barolo wine
Ingredients:
-Ox loin, as indicated in the recipe
-Barolo wine
-Tomatoes
-Meat stock
-Lard
-Carrot, onion, several stalks of celery, juniper berries
-Rosemary, thyme, garlic, bay leaves
-Cinnamon, cloves
-Olive oil, butter, salt
NB – as the meat is cooked in the salted wine marinade, with meat stock, it isn't’t necessary to add more salt during cooking.

Take the boned meat, pierce it to add lard and carrot sticks.
Keep it for 8 days in a marinade of Barolo wine, onion, celery, rosemary, cloves, thyme, garlic, bay leaves, cinnamon, juniper berries, and a pinch of salt. If the wine evaporates, add some more.
Remove the meat and save the marinade.
Dry the meat on a cloth, and brown it in the oil and butter.
Add the marinade, and simmer. When the marinade reduces, add some fresh tomatoes, and some tomato paste if desired.
Recipe from
"IL GRANDE LIBRO DELLA CUCINA ALBESE"
Famija Albèisa - Ordine dei Cavalieri del Tartufo e dei Vini di Alba
Alba-Piemonte-Italia, 1996

Imported by Neil Empson