The Wine Camp Blog

2000 Perticaia, Sagrantino di Montefalco, DOCG

Umbria often seems a land time passed by as you wander from one almost perfectly preserved mediaeval town to the other. The narrow streets of these ancient hill towns (Perugia, Assisi, Orvieto, Spoleto and Todi among others) are wonderful places to wander away a day. This small landlocked region has always lived in the shadow of its more famous neighbor to the north, Tuscany, but the lush green hills of Italy’s “green heart” are finally emerging in their own right. Many people who dreamed of a fixer-up Tuscan farmhouse have gone to Umbria instead as the prices in Tuscany have increased.

Umbria may be small, but it is rich in food. This region is the largest producer of Italian extra virgin olive oil and a major supplier of dried pasta. The Umbrian town of Norcia is famous for its black truffles and is so renowned for its pork products that it gave its name to pork butchers all over Italy, who are called norcini.

When it comes to wines from Umbria people tend to think only of two names; one is the name of a wine, the innocuous Orvieto, but the other is the name of a producer. The Lungarotti family has almost single handedly brought Umbrian wine making into the modern age and to the attention of wine consumers worldwide. However, wines other than Lungarotti Torgiano Riserva are getting serious attention these days and from vineyards in the hills south of Perugia the wines of Montefalco have developed a following of their own. In fact, their reputation had grown to such a point that Sagrantino di Montefalco has recently been granted DOCG status.

Sagrantino is an old variety that may be indigenous to Umbria. This vine gives a wine that is intensely flavored with deep dark fruit flavors, but that also has a streak of intensely bitter flavors that top winemakers have only recently learned how to restrain. However, it is this firm bitterness of Sagrantino that matches so well with the roasted pork and black truffles for which Umbria is so highly regarded.

The tiny Perticaia estate is the creation of Guido Guradigli who finally realized his dreams of his own winery after making wines at the respected Scacciadiavoli estate for years. He makes two wines at Perticaia: a regular Montefalco, which is a blend of sangiovese, merlot and sagrantino and his dramatic Sagrantino di Montefalco.

Tasting Notes: Perticaia, Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG, 2000

Dark scarlet with ruby touches. Just translucent. Firm, ripe plums and spice with cherries and a distinct floral rose characteristic. Firm and rich at the same time. The deep spiced tart cherry and toasted oak flavors are still closed, but show good potential. Decidedly interesting to drink and with a different flavor profile from cab/merlot/sangiovese wines of the area. The finish is very firm, but the tannins are well controlled and well integrated. The 14% alcohol is carried very well. This is a wine waiting to wake up. You will be well rewarded by waiting at least five years before drinking. For drinking now, three or four hours in a decanter are recommended.