The Wine Camp Blog

2002 Marcato, Soave Classico Superiore, IL Tirso, Feb. 2004

A Garganega for Condrieu Lovers

Garganega is not a word that rolls easily off an English speaking tongue. It is also not a vine at the top-of-the-list of many wine lovers favorite grapes - and maybe for good reason as it is the grape that defines Soave. As compared to the name of its primary vine, Soave rolls off the tongue smoothly, but all too often without any flavor.

The Soave region, located to the east of Verona in Veneto, has suffered the same fate as Chianti and for the same reason. Giant commercial producers more concerned with quantity have for decades over-cropped and produced thin, flavorless wines and expanded the vineyard area into areas that produce a lot of watery grapes. Then they export boatloads of it: not very good image building.

As in Chianti there is also a Classico sub-zone, but here the similarity ends as in Toscana there are other great sangiovese wines outside of the Classico zone, but for the finest quality garganega you have to look for producers with vineyards on the steep hillsides of Soave Classico.

For years now there has been a small group of producers dedicated to the Soave Classico zone and to the potential of garganega to produce great wines. Although their numbers were few, their impact has been large. Estates like Pieropan, Inama, Anselmi and Gini proved that garganega is capable of greatness and now some of the more commercial producers are following their lead.

Azienda Agricola Marcato is perhaps better known in Italy for their larger production wines, which are sold under the La Giareta and I Prandi labels, but they have also created a range of very good single vineyard wines from their estates in the Soave Classico, Colli Berici and Lessini zones. The best of all of these wines is the rich and complex Soave Classico Superiore, Il Tirso. It should also be noted that the less expensive estate Soave from Marcato, Tenuta Barche, is a lovely wine with more guts than the most Soave wines and is a great value.

Il Tirso is a blend of 92% garganega, 5% trebbiano di Soave and 3% chardonnay. After 12 hours of skin contact it is fermented in a combination of barrels and stainless steel and then aged on the lees in large oak barrels ( 85%) and barrique (15%) for seven months. Only 6,000 bottles were produced.

Tasting Notes: 2002 Marcato Soave Classico Superiore, Il Tirso
Bright medium gold. Very ripe creamy nose layered with toffee, pears, citrus and lychee. Big and broad on the palate, full of very ripe (but not overripe) pear and spices. The finish is long and complex - a luxury wine for rich food. Very impressive - a wine to compete with the best of Soave. I will question the listed 12.5% alcohol.

Those that love viognier will also love these late-harvested versions of garganega. Also, like viognier, this is not a wine I would recommend aging for extended periods and would suggest it be consumed within the next two years.

While this is a rich wine, is still has a good backbone of acidy so will match well with many foods. In Veneto trips stews would often be served, but I would also recommend sweetbreads and other offal dishes. A classic Maine lobster dripping in butter would also find a perfect compliment here as would a selection of aged cheeses.